As glitzy eateries take over the urban landscape, the iconic Irani cafes are dying down. Hardly less than 10 have survived from a whopping number of 100 Irani cafes which existed back in the 70’s.
Belonging to this generation, little did I know about these Irani cafes except for what I heard from my father. It was his go to place for lunch with colleagues during his Jang days back in the 90’s. Once abuzz with politics, poetry and all sorts of heated debates and discussions over endless cups of teas, these iconic cafes brought together the city’s journalists, novelists, columnists and even politicians.
These Irani cafes sprouted up in the 19th century when Persian immigrants settled down in Karachi and ventured into restaurant business.
We started our quest for Irani cafes from Chullu Kabab Sistani, close to fleet club and formerly known as Café Subhani. Famous for its Chullu Kabab, an Iranian kabab dish served over a bed of buttered rice, the restaurant has been refurbished by its local owners to meet the demands of today’s customers. Nevertheless, their specialty Chullu Kabab is not to be missed as it serves as a perfect meal lunch.
Our next stop was Khairabad tea house, which happens to be at the intersection of II Chundrigar Road and Dr Ziauddin Ahmed Road. High ceilinged cafe with pista colored wooden benches was crowded by loyal customers at lunch time. Located at street corners, having entrances on both sides and small paan shops tucked outside are exclusive to Irani cafes only. Named after a town in Iran from where his family is, the owner Abbas Sanaf Ali greeted us warmly and served us with doodh patti. To keep pace with the changing times, the café’s menu has been upgraded and it has been renamed to Café Khairabad (Tea Shop) and Food Centre, although too long to be painted on the entrance door.
HB: How old is this café?
AS: In 1932, my grandfather set up this restaurant who had migrated from Iran. This café has witnessed partition of the sub-continent even.
It took us a while to find Victory Café, opposite to Techno city tower. Its interior was rather a more contrasting one as compared to Khairabad. Entrance door painted in orange, the café was adorned by bentwood chairs while maroon table cloth covered the table tops.
Instructions found on boards in Irani cafes are summed up in a poem by Nissim Ezekiel
IRANI RESTAURANT INSTRUCTIONS*
Please
Do not spit
Do not sit more
Pay promptly, time is valuable
Do not write letter
without order refreshment
Do not comb,
hair is spoiling floor
Do not make mischiefs in cabin
our waiter is reporting
Come again
All are welcome whatever cast
If not satisfied tell us
otherwise tell others
GOD IS GREAT
—— Nissim Ezekiel, 1972
These cafes are a memory and taste that lingers so I hope the ones remaining in the metropolis can sustain in the longer run.
Photography : Hamna Iqbal Baig & Rahmeen Shaikh
